Unquera to Llanes: 20.74 miles
Truth be told, the last couple of days have really dragged because a lot of the walking was road walking. Sometimes it feels so boring and grey. They were punctured by the occasional stroll past a beach, but it always saddened me to turn inland. Climb another 1,000ft hill, just to scramble down the other side on to another road.
On paper, today was another of those days. With the heat, I had started to question what the fuck I was doing here.
You think, with all the time alone, you have time to think! But you don’t. You have to concentrate on surviving and just figure out what to do for the forthcoming miles. Go from stop to stop. Find a bed, collapse in to it, rinse and repeat.
Thus, it can get boring and each day rolls on to the other.
The moral of this story: Push through the shit, survive, don’t give up, and you get a reward!
Today was a big reward.
About 2 miles in, hilly and hot, I descended down another old dirt track on to another roadway and, according to the book, had 3 miles of more poxy road to the next stop. However, someone had painted a yellow arrow diversion simply adding “Costa” next to it.
Hmm… Costa! Either a great coffee shop awaited? Or my limited Spanish told me, and it doesnt take a genius to figure it out, that this also means “Coast”.
Fuck it, I thought, let’s follow it. Screw the guide book. What’s the worst that could happen? Well I could get lost, be miles off a known track, trip, break an ankle, dehydrate and someone finds my dead rotten bloated corpse in 6 weeks time, depending on which one of you misses me enough to call for help 🙂 But, yeah, what’s the worst that could happen!
Wow! Just WOW!
The next 4 miles were just breathtaking. The “Costa” led to a local footpath along the cliff edge. It was outstanding. Some of the pictures are below, but I must have taken 200 at least. I just kept stopping, and sitting, and staring, and listening to the beauty right in front on me. I thanked Neptune and his mates for creating such an amazing image. I had the biggest smile on my face the whole time. This was a massive high. This is the right time to think. This reminds you what it, and everything, is all about.
Eventually, sadly, this route came to an end and I had to get back on track and head in to town to find my stable for the night.
Bumped in to Janet & Steve again, we had a brief encounter a few days ago. Got talking to them and decided on dinner together. A couple of kind, cool, chilled out, Americans. All in all a great day was had.
That sums up the Camino. Some days are shit. It’s just bloody hard work. You have no idea why you are there. But the good days more than make up for the bad.